Even in Death Black Hair Has Its Place

May 1, 2021

By Christopher Gulley

It is no secret that Black people take great pride in the way that they present themselves. This was seen especially in the 1960’s during the Black is Beautiful movement, a movement that encouraged Black people in the US to embrace their natural aesthetic as it was being warred against with European standards of beauty. Black people had and still have high regard for the way they present themselves. This is seen in the expressions of clothing and hair stylings. So quite naturally it is expected that these standards will be upheld even in death.

“That’s not the way Pawpaw wore his hair”, the granddaughter of the deceased WWII veteran said to her grandmother as they both stared at the body lying in state. “He had an Afro”, she said next with a confused yet innocent look on her face. Sure enough, her grandfather in his days of living wore a short-trimmed afro. This was a classic situation that happens when a funeral director/mortician neglects to fully research the cosmetic history (the way make-up and hair may have been styled) of the person in care. The funeral home staff without knowledge of how the deceased individual wore his hair, groomed him the best way they knew how, I’m sure, giving him a standard trim and line-up.

 In most cases the family elects someone personally known to style the hair of their loved one. This person may have been a longtime hairdresser/barber and is familiar with the particular ways the deceased family member/friend styled their hair. Dr. Afiya, a Clinical Psychologist/Hairstylist, says that people who frequent barbershops/beauty salons may spend hours with their stylist each visit, thus creating a familial and intimate bond. So, it’s no surprise that even in death, these professionals are called upon.

If an outside source isn’t chosen to carry out the cosmetic grooming of the deceased person, funeral staff will perform the duties. Funeral staff members (directors, morticians, etc.), are trained with basic cosmetic/grooming skills, but most have natural abilities to style hair and apply make-up. 

It is standard practice for the funeral staff to use old photos to get an idea of the customary style of make-up/hair worn by the person in care. Photos will then be used as a guide to recreate a more natural look, that is reminiscent of the way hair was worn during life and is familiar to family and friends.

In the funeral home, hair treatment of a deceased individual is carried out the same way it would be if the person was living. Hair is initially washed—shampooed and conditioned— dried, then styled. After embalming has taken place the body is moved to a dressing room where cosmetics (hair and makeup) and dressing is completed. The main goal during the restorative/grooming process is to create a look for the deceased individual that is normal and life-like. This is extremely important, as this will be the last visual image that family and friends will have of their loved one.

When considering the intersectionality (in the funeral industry in this case) of Black hair/beauty aesthetics, grief, and the pressure to perform—restorative, cosmetic process, etc.—it is imperative that cosmetic expectations are establish and upheld, because as mentioned before, this will be that last memory surviving members will have of their deceased loved one.  Because Black people have such a high regard for the way they present themselves, it may be even more important to them that their loved one is well put together.

Black hair has made its place in history and present day with momentous meaning and motivational movements. So, it’s no surprise that even in death, Black hair has a place.

Article Sources

Mbilishaka, A. (2018). PsychoHairapy: Using Hair as an Entry Point into Black Women’s Spiritual and Mental Health. Meridians: feminism, race, transnationalism, 382-392.

Steinhauer, J. (2019, July 3). Uncovering the Soul of the ‘Black Is Beautiful’ Movement. Retrieved from The New York Times: https://www.nytimes.com/2019/07/03/arts/design/kwame-brathwaite-black-is-beautiful-photography.html

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Christopher Gulley is a published author, mental health propagandist, professional funeral goer, and storyteller.

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